Breakwater Surf Co.

Photo: Courtesy @urbansurfergirl

I hit up Beach 67 on Sunday with a friend and checked out newly opened Breakwater Surf Co to rent a couple boards. Nigel, the owner, was super helpful and even let us trade in our shortboards for something more forgiving when we'd had enough of roughing it (rookies, what are you gonna do). The shop just opened in August and everything was still new, which is a nice contrast against the battered foamies you'll find at some of the other rental shops. We even got to test a Greenlight Subway Series demo "longboard" that you can carry on the subway. Wide and thick like a longboard, but only 6'10, easy peazy for subway navigating.

Originally from Barbados, Nigel's been surfing these waters for the past 20 years so had plenty of advice on the best breaks and seems just as concerned about establishing a community hub as he is about turning a profit.

I'm not even gonna talk about the actual surfing, except to say, it's still pretty humbling.

SURF FORECAST: SATURDAY

Saturday afternoon is looking good for both Rockaway and Long Beach care of Nadine. Small 1–2 feet waves starting Sat around 1p (low tide), with strong 12–15mph offshore/cross shore winds and long, fat swells stretching 15–18 seconds for both beaches. Perfect for rookies.

Waves will peak on Sunday reaching 3–5 feet (chest to head high), winds easing into single digits, and swells getting shorter as we get to Monday afternoon.

Weather will be cool. You'll definitely need a full 3/2 or 4/3 suit.
It's going to be a good weekend. Go get some.

MAGIC

Found this random video online and think that person might actually be me?

Steve noticed them first, "I think I see some mammals out there?" Annemieke and I scanned our eyes across the grey surface of the ocean for several seconds. We were total skeptics on this matter. But then, miraculously, there they were. A smattering of black fins skimming along the coast, just past the breaks. Here. In the motherfucking Rockaways. Our minds were — how do you say — blown? We watched them from shore, then suited up for a morning surf session.

An hour or so later, the dolphins were back, swimming in the opposite direction. I was sitting on the sand, recovering from a major wipeout and heat exhaustion. The wetsuit I'd worn, (4/3) was WAY too hot; I'd had to keep flushing it through with ocean coldness to maintain sanity. After peeling the suit off, I was reluctant to 1) put it back on 2) dive back in the water in just a bikini. But those dolphins were SO CLOSE. I grabbed my board and headed out anyway. It was cold, but I warmed up soon enough from all the paddling. I paddled until my arms felt weak. Then I paddled some more. The people back on shore looked no taller than than the tip of my pinky, and the dolphins — the dolphins were swimming by me a mere 10 feet away. I could hear them breaching, just going about their business as usual. But for me, it was pure magic: I felt alive, humbled, and utterly grateful for this moment.