CHOOSING A BOARD

Image from Wooden Surfboard Plans (notes mine)

At my first lesson, my instructor handed me 9'6 foam longboard. Nothing pretty to look at, but it's the least likely to give you a concussion (or result in a liability). Since then, I've been mostly riding 9' fiberglass boards, or longboards until I find one of my own. I was told by friend and Rockaway veteran Shawn Roche to get something more in the range of  8'. It seems the rule of thumb for beginner boards is to get something 22 inches taller than you, round nosed, and fairly wide and thick. I'm 5'4, so I could probably stand to get something in the 7'2 to 8' range — I guess you call this a funboard?

Longboards
The easiest to learn on, these logs give you maximum buoyancy and stability, especially on the tiny, knee high summer Rocka-waves.

Short performance boards
These guys are better suited for slightly bigger waves — waist to chest high and are meant for turning and carving. Harder to learn on (but easier to carry on the subway).

Malibu/Funboard
They say this is the board you'll have your whole life. These have the stability of a longer board, but will be easier to learn on than a short board and are best for most conditions.

Boards come in one of four basic materials.
Foam (soft top): Rent and learn on one, but don't buy one. They're cheap and ugly.

Fiberglass: These have a polyester foam core that makes the board feel more responsive and give the board weight — to smooth out chop (like driving a sedan). The fiberglass (polyurethane resin) also adds to the "lively" feel but leaves it prone to dings and dents, which can compromise the water tightness and are costly to repair.

Epoxy: These start with a Poly Styrene foam blank, and will be lighter, stronger, and less prone to damage. You'll also get a stiffer board which may or may not be your cup of tea. Less toxic than Fiberglass, but I mean, that's like comparing petrol to coal. Both fiberglass and epoxy will yellow with age and are subject to sun damage after prolonged use.

Wood: I have yet to see anyone riding one of these in the water, but it seems every vintage surfing picture has some tanned surfer standing against a beast of a board, the grain lean and dark, with a rich patina earned over years of use. Wood boards can be the most expensive, and while definitely the least toxic to produce, still have to be sealed with a poly-based resin. Newer boards are hollow, can have removable fins, and are finished in fiberglass or epoxy. They'll last you a lifetime, and will only look more beautiful with age.